English. [c.1800-1840] Hardback; half red morocco over brown calf, rebacked, with gilt tooling and green morocco label lettered in gilt to spine. 87 pages of patterns, predominantly on rectos only; many pages with multiple designs; the majority in ink, some in pencil. English & French. 230 x 195mm. 2kg. . Very good; boards slightly rubbed, corners repaired, rebacked; couple of minor worm holes to first few leaves, gutter of a few leaves with minor loss, skillfully repaired and not effecting image.
An English eighteenth-century pattern book of hand-drawn designs for whitework embroidery for clothes and household textiles. Whitework embroidery involved using white thread on a white textile, usually muslin or cambric. The album contains eighty-seven pages of ink, and occasionally pencil, drawings. The first fifty-seven pages appear to be by the same hand and feature intricate and often elaborate drawings with varied nature-inspired motifs. The succeeding pages, whilst similar, appear to be executed by different, later hands with a more varied and looser style. Notations on some of the designs include 'lace', 'open work', 'cambric' 'A pattern for an Apron or Handkerchief', and 'To be worked on the hems'. Many of the patterns have a repeat liner motif, whilst some are singular decorations. The style of the designs have the delicacy and scale common with other Regency designs of the period, with a tendency towards small flower, leaf and frond elements. Whilst needlework patterns could be found in periodicals of the time such as Ackermann's Repository of Arts, many embroiderers, predominantly women, created their own designs. There are no marks to indicate the artist of the designs but their intricacy suggests they were created by either a professional needleworker or by an accomplished amateur. [WITH] An Album of Original Designs for Embroidered Handkerchiefs from Cholet, France. Cholet. [Late 19th century]. Hardback; half maroon calf over maroon buckrum boards, gilt title and decoration to spine. 250 x 320mm. 44 pages of patterns, predominantly on rectos only, remaining leaves blank; many pages with multiple designs; the majority in ink, some in pencil, a few filled with colour pencil. Two loose pages of four ink designs drawn on verso of J. Passini headed paper, dated 192x. Good; light wear to boards with some rubbing, splitting to front inner hinge, a rear leaf partly pulled from binding. Cholet in the Loire Vally was historically the home of embroidered handkerchiefs. The album contains numerous hand-drawn designs for the edging and corner motifs for handkerchiefs, as well as designs for monograms. An attractive page of coloured designs feature the words "Souvenir de France" indicating the desirability of Cholet handkerchiefs as a souvenir and speciality of the region. The designs feature both linear and small flower and leaf elements. Tucked in are two loose sheets with eight further designs in total, from the embroidered linen and lingerie manufacturer J. Passini, Cholet.
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