Edited by Boris Kochno. Preface by Lucien Lelong. Introduction by Louis Cheronnet. Cover design by Christian Berard.
Paris. La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. 1945. First edition. Spiral-bound card wrappers, with a colour lithograph by Christian Berard to front cover. Unpaginated [46 pages of advertisements, 84 pages of text, 8 pages of advertisements. 54 pages of graphic text-based advertisements printed in pastel shades, b&w photographs and illustrations, 3 tipped-in colour reproductions. 305 x 255mm (12 x 10"). 0.8kg. . English. Very good; light shelf wear, browning to wrappers, some wear along edges and spine of wrappers, wear at head and base of spine with a small area of loss at head; the binding remains firm and tight, internally fresh.
The English catalogue for the famous Theatre de la Mode fashion exhibition. In 1945 post-war Paris the French couture houses were struggling to survive. The privations of German occupation and shortages of materials had bought many fashion designers to their knees. The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, led by Lucien Lelong,decided to create an exhibition showcasing the finest work of the Parisian couturiers with an aim to revive the fashion industry and to promote their solidarity and independence. The exhibition was designed and curated by Christian Berard and Boris Kochno. Because of shortages and for ease of transport the mannequins for the clothes were doll-sized, approximately 27.5 inches high with wire bodies. 237 dolls were dressed in miniature couture outfits by 41 Paris designers including Balenciaga, Madame Gres, Hermes, Jacques Fath, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Lucien Lelong, Marcel Rochas, Molyneux, Nina Ricci, Paquin, Schiaparelli and Worth. The couturiers were supported by 37 milliners, 21 hairdressers and a host of umbrella makers, bookmakers, and jewellers. The dolls were placed in 12 artist-designed stage sets created by the likes of Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard and Georges Geffroy. Settings included The Theatre, The Enchanted Grotto, At the Palais-Royal, Morning in the Champs-Elysees, and A Roundabout. The exhibition was an enormous success both in its aim to promote the fashion industry but also as a fund-raiser for the war relief efforts. After a few months in Paris it toured around Europe for the rest of 1945. In London it was presented under the patronage of the British Amassador in Paris and Lady Diana Cooper and the French Ambassador in London and Madame Massigli. In 1946 the mannequins were re-dressed in the new season's fashions and were sent to America for their US tour.
|Price : £320.00|